New Orleans/Ascona-sister cities
A project 18 months in the making finally became reality as The Ella Project led a group of music fans, friends of The Ella Project, and unofficial New Orleans for the 38th edition of Jazz Ascona. The Festival is a love letter to the culture of New Orleans…needless to say, we fit right in. The Festival is a mini French Quarter Fest in the old part of the town, so a mini French Quarter Fest in a mini French Quarter. Stages pop up along the waterfront, drum sets appear on hotel balconies, and pianos on docks. There are thirty or so performances each night, ranging from a large stage to an alleyway. It’s all rather magical.
The schedule mixes New Orleans and Louisiana acts with musicians from across Europe. Amazingly curated by New Orleans’ own Adonis Rose, musical styles vary, lots of contemporary jazz, songbirds, and Django influenced pickers. But the real action begins at the close of the official acts, when New Orleans musicians get together with their new friends from Europe in a small bar just up the cobblestone road from the Stage Chiesa, and play literally until the cops bicycle by around 3:00 a.m. Until they come to shut the place down for the night, the scene is reminiscent of 52nd Street, New York City, circa 1953. Cutting contests - with riffs flying back and forth - and so many musicians packing the back room of the place that some stand outside and send their licks through the wide open windows facing Lago Maggiore. These cats are young, but the music is old, and it’s refreshing - and thoroughly exciting - to see them finding their way along the pathways paved by Miles, Bird and Dizzy.
This year was also special in that New Orleans has a new sister city: and it’s Ascona. Mayor Cantrell came over and was ubiquitous around town before signing the sister city designation. The ceremony was held the largest stage, literally called “The New Orleans Stage” in a prime time spot on Saturday night. This was a big deal for the people of Ascona-they love our culture, and they love that we are here. But it’s also a big deal for us, for New Orleans. This culture of ours really is our most valuable resource, and you see here, with Roots of Music leading nightly parades, younger musicians from NOJO or Tulane, that this culture is vibrant, growing, and just needs continued support to thrive. As Sean Ardoin, who was in Ascona for the whole 10 days of the festival says, “When we perform, we always bring our culture with us and in doing so we leave a lil piece of Louisiana with them that makes them want to get the authentic stuff!” We know when people do get “the authentic stuff,” they’ll want more, and they’ll come to Louisiana.
As we think about what our city is doing to grow our culture here at home, we’ve seen new commitments from the City with the creation of the Cultural Fund, Night Management position, and there’s so much work to be done, but Ella Project will be here, assisting artists with their rights, advocating for change, because we know what’s possible. In that spirit, we recall the words from our waiter Mark in Ascona when he found out where we were from: “New Orleans: it’s my dream.” The reality may not always match the dream, but together, we can continue to grow and share this culture with dreamers from across the world.
